Wednesday, August 1, 2007

Getting pelted on Aiguille Extra

Aiguille Extra in 2008. We got hammered with hail early in the afternoon about 2/3 up the route. A mildly unpleasant bail followed.


Trip: Aiguille Extra IV 5.10 - E. Face
Date: 8/1/2007
Trip Report:Several needles south of Whitney lies Aiguille Extra. (Just right of center)
rh turned me onto this. He had one day to do it and had none of his usual partners. So Wed found us on the approach and arriving at the base around 8:30 AM.
The route was alternately stellar and chossy and eventually we wound up at the crux pitch 2/3 of the way up.
Unfortunately at that time the skies opened up dumping lots of hail. It became serious quickly. Above the roof a retreat was called.
As luck would have it, the weather improved as soon as we committed to descent. Things weren't perfect on the descent but we are both alive. As my partner put, "A great adventure".





Thursday, July 19, 2007

July 2007 It's Goode!

North Buttress goes up to the highest point.

The north buttress of Mt. Goode had been on my hit list for awhile. I teamed up with Pavel in July of 2007 to climb the route. It was a good route but jogs off the crest of the buttress in the lower third of the route to bypass a blank headwall section. We summited early and Pavel and his wife hiked up over Bishop Pass to bag the west arete of Mt. Winchell with Misha which I foolishly passed on. I've made a solo attempt at the w. arete since but bailed. We climbed about a pitch up the direct start before roping up. It was kind of a shitty spot. Pavel took the first lead giving me the exposed traverse across the arete. Was rather easier than expected. Pavel got the crux 5.9 finger pitch. We linked several pitches and did the 9 pitch route in I think 6 pitches.
Time to rope up.

Arriving at the first belay
Leading traverse pitch

Pavel coming up after the chimney

Pavel leading the crux pitch




Pavel on the summit





Wednesday, June 20, 2007

After work climb: East Buttress Mt. Whitney solo.



Trip: Mt. Whitney - East Buttress

Date: 6/20/2007
Trip Report:
Decided to do this route solo on my way home from work. Left the Portal 5:15 am. Back at Portal a little before 3pm. Plenty of time for a beer and a burger at the Portal store. Faster than I thought, funner than I thought. I always love popping out on the huge flat summit after doing an east face route to amazed looks of the trail hikers .

Gear Notes:
Approach boots, Rock shoes