Another one dug out of the archives.
I had really wanted to do this as a winter climb but
Sam agreed to go in June of '04
I guess I really didn't know what the route was supposed to be at the time, but I envisioned a traverse across the N face ledge system and up the summit cone, which is what we did. Reading further later, it appears as if the FA was up the NE couloir direct then up the N. Face. Oh well, our route was pretty cool, if rather loose in places. We got an alpine start and summited early. Descent was made via the E ridge until dropping the couloir (extremely loose!) back to Longley Reservoir. We never did rope up although we rappeled at least once going down the E ridge. We hiked out to the car the same day.
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The N face ledge system is the obvious snow line going across the mid face |
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Snow was rock hard so we put on crampons to speed things up |
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The north couloirs - right and left |
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approaching the N face ledge system |
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Traversing loose ground on the ledge system |
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Better rock high on the N face |
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Sam at the notch below the summit cone |
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Sam on the summit |
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A rap on the E ridge descent |
That was a fun climb. If I remember right, we were going to belay the pitch from the notch to the summit, but when we got there, we said "Fook it", and just solo'ed it.
ReplyDeleteYup. That's what I remember too.
ReplyDelete