Tubeless Tutorial

The whole tubeless setup tips arena. This is what I've found works for me via trial and error and more trial and more error... Tubeless, just do it!

First and most important. Tubeless compatible rims on your wheel set. You can often get away with tires that aren't tubeless specific (don't use tires with wire beads!) but if you try with non tubeless rims you're most likely going down the 'ghetto' (split tube) set up road. Fatty strippers are another well known and effective solution though I've never used them. This tutorial will not delve into those alternate solutions.  For best results I recommend tubeless ready rims and tires.

Fat bikes. For the most part you will use the same steps as outlined in this tutorial but if your rims are single wall with cut outs and rim strips, you will have to tape over the rim strip as well. If the rim strip is too wide to give you enough shoulder on the rim to tape to you can most likely cut the rim strip down or make your own. I make mine out of polyester ribbon in various colors. I've also made them out of vinyl pond liner . Works great and of course waterproof but slightly heavier. Note that I would consider it a best practice to install a tube and inflate the tire overnight before removing the tube and continuing the setup process. This really helps set the tape in place on these wide rims. Also helps with seating the beads. (See method #2 with no air compressor below).

Tape - You can buy tape specifically marketed as tubeless installation tape such as Whiskey, Stans or Sunringle and others. It's quite expensive and as a DIY guy I like to experiment so I've used a bunch of different tapes from good ol' Gorilla tape to electrical tape, Kapton tapes, 3m 8898, Tyvek etc. Some work great, some not so much and some seal well but are horrible to remove. What has worked best for me is Amazon brand 'Tape Master' green powder coating masking tape. It comes in different widths and is currently in use on my mountain bike wheel set, plus wheel set and fat wheel set. My least favorite is Tyvek. You'll hear its praises sung. However every time I've used it and although it seals well, it's an absolute gooey mess with constant tearing and digging at the ends with a pick to remove. Never again! 

To start, wipe the inside of your rim down with alcohol. No not your whiskey! Really clean that rim with high% rubbing alcohol! After cleaning the rim, tape the tiny drain holes in the rim bed first if you have them, then look at your wheel from the non-drive side (left) and tape directionally clockwise. This puts the final overlap moving with the direction of spin and thus the sealant will have a bit harder time moving under the overlap. I'm not sure if this is absolutely mandatory as I've taped the opposite direction and it was fine too. But I have had the sealant getting up under the overlap. I've had equal success starting a couple spoke holes from the valve hole (above the valve hole) or starting on the rim opposite the valve hole. Make sure you overlap the tape by about 2.5 spoke holes. If you start above the valve hole, start at least 1.5 spokes holes above the valve and overlap by the valve hole plus 1.5 spoke holes. To open the valve hole I generally just cut an x through the tape over the opening. Using a hot nail or the like works too. If you find that the tape width is too wide I always trim the tape on the roll before applying it.

Valve install - I've found the valves with the rubber cone shaped sealing area work the best for me. Stick the valve through the x you cut. Grab the rim with your fingers and use the bottom part of your thumb to push that sucker as hard as you can (maybe even use 2 hands at first) while screwing the valve nut down with your other hand. Then do it again. And again until you're not getting anymore thread on the valve nut. For even better results use something flat, like a pop sickle stick between your thumb and the valve. Don't use pliers etc to tighten the valve nut.

Tire install - Make sure if it's a directional tire you install it in the correct orientation. Always try to not use a tire lever or other tool when installing a tire. Make sure the tire is pushed completely into the center channel when you install. Both sides. As you are working the second side onto the rim, continually check to make sure the first side and as much of the second side as possible is pushed into the center. This makes the final tight area much easier to work onto the rim. As yet I haven't had to use a lever using this method. Don't worry if you forgot to install the valve before the second side of the tire, just push the tire out of the way and install the valve as above.

Seating beads
Air Compressor: You can get a perfectly usable compressor for <$100.

 

Screw on your Presta to Schrader adaptor, maybe soap up the tire beads a little and let 'er rip until the beads are set on the rim. Be cautious to not over inflate beyond maximum tire pressure. If that doesn't work (and it probably won't). I've also had to remove the valve core and use a gun fitting and a bit of tubing to go over the valve to get enough air flow to inflate the tire onto the rim bead seats. Remove the fittings and let the tire air down. Beads should stay set. (You bought tubeless ready tires and rims right?) In reality you may also need to use one or a combination of the methods below even with a compressor. With fat tires it's common to use a tube first to set the beads and also set the tape.

No air compressor: Method 1. CO2 cartridge. I've never used one so can't comment.
Method 2. Remove one side of the tire off the rim. Remove your valve. Insert your spare tube. (You did bring one on your ride right?) Insert the tube and replace tire on the rim. Inflate as usual until both beads are set. Deflate, remove one side of the tire again and remove the tube. Be sure one bead remains seated. Replace loose side back on the rim. Install your tubeless valve. Work the loose bead toward the the edge of the rim as much as possible. Use the method below (method 3) for best chance of success. Put your hand pump on and pump like crazy! One issue here is that the more times you're taking the tire off the rim, the more likely it is that you'll disrupt the tape causing a leak.
Method 3 With both sides of the tire on the rim try to lube your beads. If you're on the trail you can use your water bottle or a couple drops of chain lube spread around the beads. If you've already had sealant in your tire it may already be slimy enough. Use your tire lever as if you were removing the tire but instead of pulling it all the way over the rim edge, just pull it up to the bead shoulder. Go all the way around the tire until it gets too tight to pull it up. Repeat on the other side. Put your pump on and pump like crazy! Surprisingly I have a high success rate with this method if I am diligent enough. None of these methods are a slam dunk for sure.

Install Sealant – Rotate your wheel so that the valve is at approximately the 4 or 8 o'clock position. With the valve core still out use a syringe with tubing or a squeeze bottle and inject about 60cc or 2oz into a 27.5 mountain bike tire. 3 oz for 29er, 4oz for 29+ tires and 6oz for a fatty. If using a syringe pull back a little suction so sealant doesn't squirt back out at you when you remove the tubing. Install your valve cores. Re-inflate your tire and shake it around to distribute the sealant. Depending on your tire/rim interface you may see a little sealant weeping around the bead. It shouldn't be much. If there is, there's a problem. Ideally, go for a ride even if it's just a short one to help really distribute the sealant. Pro tip: Don't do any of this at 10pm the night before a big ride.

My home made sealant formula, makes almost a liter. Mix in this order. Works for me. YMMV.
9oz distilled wtr
7oz propylene glycol
5 oz liquid latex. Mold builder from Michael's craft stores works well. -Prices for Michaels mold builder have increased dramatically since originally publishing this tutorial so I have been testing Environmolds from Amazon for the last couple batch's and it seems to be working fine)
.5 10% ammonia
2 tblsp cornmeal

Although not strictly necessary these are pretty nice:
P-nuts
And for single wall fat bikes:
Super P-nuts