Toiyabe Crest Trail - The Colorado Trail Of Nevada

 

"You get comfortable being uncomfortable" - unknown

7/7 - 7/09/2026

It's July in Nevada. Far too hot (for me) for riding in the typical 4000-6000 ft elevations.  

The Basin and Range Province is one of North America's most distinctive landscapes, and Nevada is its heart. It was created over the past 15–20 million years as the Earth's crust slowly stretched apart. As the crust pulled apart, large blocks of rock dropped downward to form broad valleys (basins), while adjacent blocks were pushed upward to create long, narrow mountain ranges. More than 300 individual mountain ranges cross Nevada. Unlike many mountain systems, where ranges form continuous chains, Nevada's mountains run mostly north to south in a repeating pattern. From the air, the state resembles a series of parallel ridges separated by wide, arid valleys. For bikepackers and hikers, Basin and Range terrain means a constant rhythm of long climbs followed by long descents.

The Toiyabe Crest Trail is different. It runs north - south along the crest of the Toiyabe Range keeping you above the valley heat. But the entry fee is steep. The full length of the trail including the wilderness area southern portion is about 63 miles. The bike legal section outside of the wilderness area is 32 miles. To loop the bike legal section without a shuttle makes the route approx 70 miles with 11000 ft of climbing. Most of the route stays between 8,000 and 11,000 feet, offering long ridge-top riding and hiking with expansive views across the Great Basin. 

A Brief History

The history of the trail is more interesting than the often-repeated story that it was simply built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC). Early Forest Service records document tens of thousands of sheep using the crest each year in the early 1900s. During the 1930s, the CCC improved sections of the existing route, but historians have found little evidence that the entire trail was constructed from scratch during that era, despite that claim appearing in many later publications. Throughout the 1960s and 1970s, the trail became known for organized horseback rides that showcased the rugged beauty of the Toiyabe Range. In 1979, the Toiyabe Crest Trail was officially designated a National Recreation Trail, recognizing its outstanding scenic and recreational value. In recent years a dedicated group of volunteers has been working on the trail to restore it for it's outstanding historic, scenic and recreational value. 

On 7/7 - 7/9 I took a run at the bike legal section of the Toiyabe Crest Trail. The section south of Ophir Pass is wilderness and bikes are not allowed. I ran the loop in a clockwise direction starting at the bottom of Ophir Pass which would put me on the trail going south to north. Before I could access the trail I had a climb of over 4000 ft just to get there. Unsurprisingly I saw no one the entire time from when I left my truck until leaving the trail near Kingston. At the end I descended the remainder of Kingston Canyon and rode an additional 20+ miles to return to my start point. A grand adventure that was all I'd hoped for, isolated, beautiful, challenging.

 

 

I started from my truck at about 3:20 am and by the time I reached the old mining town of Ophir it was starting to get light. I stopped to check out some of the ruins and the photo above is of the Murphy Mill.

 

 

At the creek crossing a little beyond Ophir I stopped to filter water as this is the last chance for some time.

 

The views opened up as I climbed toward Ophir Pass.

This view is looking at the start of the wilderness section going south from the pass.

The start of the bike legal section going north.

Yay! More climbing from the pass. I'm over 10,000 ft elevation already. 

More views!

 

I ended day 1 camped next to Tierney Creek. The foxtails had been ferocious and I sat by the creek filtering water and trying to get foxtails out of my socks. With limited success with the foxtails.

 

Day 2 started with a climb up from the creek back into the higher elevations. Lots of steep side hilling on narrow track set the character for the day. The views however continued amazing!

 

 

I decided to camp another night on the ridge top beyond Washington Creek and complete the trail into Kingston the following morning. The ridge is roughly 10,000 ft and windy but felt good with the afternoon heat. 

These photos are actually the next morning.

Last significant climb. But pay attention because the singletrack branch's off in-obviously. Thankfully I didn't miss it by much and it was easy to cut over to it.

The big drop into Kingston Canyon 

End of the trail in Kingston Canyon 

From here I dropped down to hwy 376 and made my way back to the start at the bottom of Ophir canyon passing the wild looking...Wild Granites! (Have you seen the Alex Honnold segment yet?) I took a bunch of video and hope to have it edited into something marginally watchable at some point. (Done)

 

Stats: 70 miles, 11050 ft climbing

Trail Notes: This is an 'old school' hiking trail and was not specifically designed for mountain biking. It has narrow steep tread and can be overgrown in areas. It demands complete focus and is very remote. That said, Kurt Gensheimer (@trail_whisperer) and his hard working group of volunteers has done an incredible job of bringing this trail back to life over the last eight years as of this writing. If you are following a GPS route and it differs from the trail on the ground and signage, follow the signs/trail. The track I had led off onto an unused ATV track that is not on the correct route. There is plenty of water. I found a few small creeks along the way. But get water where you find it because I found none in a couple of named sources. Tierney and Washington Creeks should be reliable.

Bike Setup: Revel Rascal full suspension mountain bike that I built from the frame up. Bikepacking bags including Louise dropper post harness and Blue Ridge handlebar cradle.

Kennedy Bikepacking Loop Featuring The Cow Parade

 

PC Kurstin

 “The bicycle is just as good company as most husbands and, when it gets old and shabby, a woman can dispose of it and get a new one without shocking the entire community.” — Ann Strong, US author 

April 2026

I had been casting about for a bikepacking route that was more than an overnight but less than a week. I was antsy from lack of adventure since my Utah trip got cut short due to the March heat wave. As unlikely as it sounds I've mostly drained my backlog with nothing but longer or more distant trips left in the queue. As I scanned Google Earth I spotted something odd. I switched to topo mode and no explanation appeared. Bingo! 

Day 1

Kurstin met me around 10am just a few minutes up the road from the Mill City turnoff of of I80 in northern Nevada. This was to be our jumping off point. We packed our bikes and  headed S.E. on Willow Creek Ranch rd. 

 

PC Kurstin

Almost immediately as we entered the canyon we scared up a bunch of cows that were lounging by the creek. Of course as cows do they just beat feet, or hooves, up onto the road directly in front of us. Bulls, cows and calf's all in a long conga line, the Cow Parade. Thus we went for at least a couple of miles. They would get ahead around a bend out of sight and slow down allowing us to catch them again. Finally as the canyon walls laid back a bit the whole parade broke up in small groups and eventually left the road for us strange not-motorbike-or-auto-conveyed humans. If it wasn't so un-funny it would have been funny. But even as annoying as it was chewing on cow dust and trying to dodge through copious amounts of cow pee and runny poop for miles it was still a bit funny.

 

Cow parade

  

PC Kurstin

 

After some 12+ miles and 2700 ft. we topped our first climb. 

 

A fun, sometimes somewhat steep descent followed. We passed some ranchers, or maybe prospectors, not sure which but they waved enthusiastically at us. 

Dropping into Spaulding Canyon we then re-climbed up to Spaulding Pass and dropped again into Klondike Canyon. Turning off on a spur to follow the route we blew past a sign that warned of private property ahead but I didn't catch the whole message. At the bottom we came across a gate.  It wasn't locked but I walked back up the short distance to read the whole sign. It was cool though. It just said the gate MAY be locked and there was no trailer turnaround. We continued on through the ranch property and out the other side ending our days ride with about 24 mi and 4k ft climbing.

 

Ah Bull.

The day wasn't over. Long daylight hours means extra, well, daylight hours. As we lounged in camp pitching solutions to world problems and getting ready to cook our respective meals we could hear a bull bellowing loudly coming down canyon towards our camp. Upon discovering us planted in perhaps his favorite meadow he was very displeased. Or perhaps expressing his joy at having biped company, who knows. At any rate he was making no moves to continue on his way and his stallion buddy (yes a horse had wandered down with him) seemed to be enjoying the ruckus. Bellowing LOUDLY he wandered around camp while his buddy, we'll call him Stan, stood a discreet distance away watching with what I assumed was horsey mirth. As he approached Kurstin's tent we had to intervene and waving and clapping sent him on his way still bellowing whatever his message was. Stan, still keeping the same measured distance wandered away with him. Ah peace at last. But no! Midnight. Here he comes bellowing his way through camp again but continued moving on. 2am here he is again. This time choosing to again stomp around camp. After 20 minutes or so I got up and again ran him off. Wow... "Hey Bull, it's pas-ture bed time!"

 

Day 2

The climbing started immediately out of camp. A short distance up canyon wet met Bull who now paid us no mind. Stan was nowhere to be seen. The road pitched up steeper and steeper until I was no longer riding. Kurstin's Brazil conditioning was serving him well and he continued riding out of sight. The roads continued as yesterday being a mix of good gravel and barely discernible. This section was the later. In due course we came across a trough I had marked on the map. The trough was upside down and not in use but good water was flowing from a pipe. After Kurstin declared "filtering is for youngsters" and filled his bottles, I gave it the calibrated sniff test. It passed and I filled my bottles without filtering also. Just to be clear, the sniff test is not an approved measure for determining water potability. 

 

PC Kurstin

The riding was through great territory rising and falling passing creeks and springs and even a mining district that we assumed was mercury since it is marked as quicksilver mines on the topo. 

PC Kurstin

 

We dropped to the floor of Pleasant Valley for a fast 5 miles to the base of our next climb, Golconda Pass in the Tobin Range. Did I mention the antelope? Yes lots of antelope in small bands or individuals. Up Golconda Pass, more semi-abandoned ranches, more water, more Gopher snakes, or maybe on this route they're better called Bull snakes (HA!) then down into Jersey Valley. 

PC Kurstin

PC Kurstin

PC Kurstin

 

Ormat Nevada has a geothermal plant here. Using our better judgement we elected not to filter water that was potentially outflow from the plant.  

 

PC Kurstin

This link has some interesting information regarding the hot springs and the impact of the geothermal plant but check this out, headlined on the page:  

You are viewing ARCHIVED content published online before January 20, 2025. Please note that this content is NOT UPDATED, and links may not work. Additionally, any previously issued diversity, equity, inclusion or gender-related guidance on this webpage should be considered rescinded. For current information, visit https://www.blm.gov/press-release.

Not news, but just.shit. 

 

Riding on we found 3 sorta trees and camped on the valley floor after about 50mi and 3400 ft of climbing for the day. 

 

Day 3

Easy riding took us around the southern end of the Tobin Range then back up Pleasant Valley, more antelope, (the cows remained relatively long distance) and eventually leading to the mouth of Kennedy Canyon, our route back over the East Range and down into Buena Vista Valley which we would traverse longitudinally north back to our start. We stopped to filter at the creek crossing at the bottom of Kennedy Canyon as there was no more assured water after we left the creek. This was at mile 95 and the route is 134 miles so that left about 40 miles of no assured water. No problem. 

PC Kurstin

PC Kurstin

 

We soon reached the old townsite of Kennedy. From Stan Paher's 'Nevada Ghost Towns And Mining Camps' and nvexpeditions.com, Kennedy was a gold camp discovered by Charles Kennedy in 1891 and soon the camp began to flourish. In 1895 the Imperial Mine built a 20 stamp mill but couldn't handle the sulfides in the ore. Eventually the mill was sold and in 1901 cyanide leaching vats were built. These remains are what I spotted on Google Earth initiating this route and trip. 

 

Steep riding led out of the town site. The last mile or so to the top was very steep pushing. 

PC Kurstin

At the top we decided to just go all the way back to our vehicles. We had about 36 miles with only 600 ft of climbing and over 3000 ft of descent. The first 2500 ft was in 9 miles so you can probably guess how that went. Then we just ground out the remaining miles and arrived back at around 5 pm for a 61 mile and 4300 ft day.  

 

This was another scenically, historically and if you read up on the pro's and con's of geothermal energy, environmentally interesting route. A great route for Pronghorn Antelope sightings, not to mention cows. But bring your climbing legs as we did over 11,700 ft of climbing in 2 and half days. 

 

Stats: 

135.05 miles, 11792 ft elevation gain per my Coros Dura

 

Route File: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/54434901 

 

Bike setups: 

Doug: Binary Bicycles Kinetik hardtail w/130mm suspension fork, 29x2.8" rear tire 29x3.0" front, custom rear rack and bikepacking bags. 

 

Kurstin: Custom Falconer rigid with bikepacking bags and rack w/mini panniers. 

 

Kurstin's blog post about this trip is now published. Check it out here.