Tuesday, November 21, 2023

Bikepacking The Sagebrush Ripple, 9 Days In The Nevada Outback. Days 7-9


In October 2023 I partnered with Kurstin aka Bikepacking Northern Nevada, aka @bikepackingnv. We'd been talking about doing a longer route through Nevada all winter, we finally made it happen. This is the route we rode: RWGPS

Day 7
Light rain had been falling through the pre dawn hours and continued intermittently as we packed up in the morning. It was light enough it presented no problems though and it wasn't very cold. Today we were going to make our 2nd crossing of the Monitor Range via Barley Creek Summit. On the way we passed, wait for it... an abandoned ranch/homestead! I was starting to understand that wherever there was a reliable water source someone at sometime had made a living there, or possibly had failed to make a living. Huge amounts of hard work had been put into these places though.

P.C. Kurstin



A different outbuilding

P.C. Kurstin

Kurstin's astute observation, "don't pull the keystone"
P.C. Kurstin

As we continued up toward Barley Creek summit we also passed some old mining equipment we couldn't identify. Or perhaps it was some type of farming equipment? Anybody know what this stuff is?



Crossing the pass we dropped back into Monitor Valley and rode over to Belmont. The weather looked threatening but never got bad. It was actually pretty nice in Belmont. We hoped Dirty Dicks saloon was going to be open but it wasn't, and it wasn't unexpected either. Being closed though didn't inhibit us from using the front porch for lunch. 

Combination Mill





P.C. Kurstin

P.C. Kurstin

Then it was over to the town spring for a fill up, no filtering needed, and a visit to the historic courthouse.




We had made the strategic decision during lunch to alter our route plan a bit and instead of heading back north into a stiff headwind then up over Jefferson summit, we would head out of town on fast pavement with the wind at our backs and cut off to cross Manhattan summit instead. I was happy but Kurstin has done this route previously and I could tell he would rather have gone over Jefferson. He was gracious enough to happily agree with my suggestion. Fast travel on tarmac led us south out of town until the cutoff up toward Manhattan. Crossing Ralston Valley the weather finally caught us with a pretty good hail and rain shower. (I found out later that while he had just made it outside of the squall zone he was secretly snickering watching me get pounded. Bad Kurstin. May your next 3 beers be warm and flat!) We made another random camp part way up Manhattan Wash and another night of high commercial airline traffic again forced the use of ear plugs. Camp 7 OATAF = 7.
Camp 7:  38.530939, -116.990072


Day 8
Chilly morning temps greeted us, but definitely not like the second morning. It wasn't long before we topped Manhattan summit where we were greeted by...dang I forgot his name, but he proceeded to tell us everything he knew about the local mining history. But he couldn't remember names either so it went something like "yeah that operation was bought out, on the south side of the ridge... by...who was that? No that was the other side of the ridge what was that outfit?" Truly a delightful guy though. Eventually he tapered off and loaded up his dogs and drove off. What was his name? I was exhausted. 





From Manhattan it was all downhill back into Big Smokey Valley, then back over to the Fremont Route which we rode a few days earlier. We made an even more southerly end run around the Toiyabe Range and ended our day at Willow Spring. We both felt the end of our trip drawing near. Oh yeah, remember in the prologue I said we had nary a mechanical but see day 8? Kurstin discovered a broken nipple on his rear wheel this evening but it hadn't caused any problems. We had a short ride tomorrow so he decided to just ignore it. Not much to be done unless it caused an issue. Camp 8 OATAF = ? Must not have been a problem.
Camp 8:  38.603599, -117.598412

P.C. Kurstin

P.C. Kurstin

P.C. Kurstin

P.C. Kurstin
Day 9
It was only 22 relatively easy miles back to the truck. Before we were ready to be, we were done. A not-cold beer while breaking down and stowing our gear, that was it. But at least we had burgers and an actual cold beer awaiting us at Middlegate Station on the way home.




Kurstin impressed me yet again with his choice of an "Evil Monster Burger"

On days 7-9 we climbed over the Monitor Range, crossed Monitor Valley, transitted Ralston Valley,  climbed over the Toquima Range, made a southerly end run around the Toiyabe Range via Big Smokey Valley. Climbed a bit over the southern end of the Shoshone mountains, then transitted north up Ione Valley back to the truck.

Logistics: We did not resupply though you could back track ~10 miles one way to Hadley if necessary.
Trip Stats: 332 miles, 18,201 ft. climbing.
Bikes:
Doug: Binary Bicycles semi-custom Kinetik titanium hardtail, 29x3.0 wheels and tires. Bikepacking bags and custom rear rack.
Kurstin: Custom Falconer rigid, 27.5x2.8 wheels and tires. Bikepacking bags.

Final comments. I have been planning multiple routes across Nevada for several years. I have taken several smaller bites from various routes but this was the longest ride yet. The route is VERY good and not overly difficult. There are a few tough sections but it's all doable and almost all rideable. In my opinion an intermediate route. I recommend riding it in the direction of the route page. Same direction as we accidentally did. Logistically there was plenty of water for our ride and resupply is available in Hadley and or Carvers. Kurstin came up with name "Sagebrush Ripple" for this route for the oceans of sage and the mountains, valley, mountains, valley nature of the route. The 'ripples'. Kurstin is an easy going, very capable, knowledgeable and importantly, a fun partner. He knows the place names much better than I do and has ridden more Nevada outback. I think we complemented each others personalities. He liked the penguin joke. Neither of us ended the trip better looking. Check out Kurstin's take on our trip here.

Bikepacking The Sagebrush Ripple, 9 Days In The Nevada Outback. Days 4-6


In October 2023 I partnered with Kurstin aka Bikepacking Northern Nevada, aka @bikepackingnv. We'd been talking about doing a longer route through Nevada all winter, we finally made it happen. This is the route we rode: RWGPS

Day 4
The night skies over Big Smokey Valley had been spectacular. But with dawn came the urge to get moving. Water sources were not a sure thing going up toward Charnock pass. I had picked some out from the map and sure enough a full trough of only slightly foul water met us when we reached our waypoint at Harmon Spring. It was a nice break resting and filtering for a half hour or so and from the spring it was only a short climb to the summit. A fast scenic downhill took us down to Monitor Valley. 






I had been looking forward to this route section. Diana's Punchbowl and Pott's Ranch. For reason's unknown even to myself I have wanted to ride my bike out to Pott's Ranch and hot springs for a number of years. Even though the hot springs has been closed and tubs removed by the property owner I still wanted to visit. But, first! Diana's Punchbowl. Rather than regurgitate all the facts about this unique feature you can read about it here. We were alone on our visit but somewhat comedically someone had lowered a deer decoy into the pit and set it up! 

Note the deer decoy



P.C. Kurstin

From Diana's Punchbowl more easy riding took us to Pott's Ranch. The abandoned Pott's Ranch. A nice creek runs through and it provided a good opportunity to wash some of the sweat and grime accumulated from the last few days. At our camp spot, we were served up pies, cow pies. Lots and lots of cow pies. All you could, well, move, to clear a tent spot. We didn't go down to the hot springs but I finally did get to ride to Pott's! Yay!
Camp 4:   39.087701, -116.638778 




P.C. Kurstin
Day 5
The big day. Over 50 miles and 2 passes to cross. The goal was to get to Moore's Station, an old stage station on the Belmont-Tybo-Eureka stage route. Another point I was eager to ride to. I've seen great pictures online and was really looking forward to it. Descending from Dobbin summit, the first pass of the day which crossed the Monitor Range, we went by what was labeled on the maps as the "miniature Grand Canyon." It was very scenic but perhaps a bit over billed with that comparison. We stopped at Clear Creek ranch, abandoned of course, to pick some apples off a lone tree bearing tons of fruit. Kurstin pointed out the fact the local wildlife was well aware of the tree as it was nicely trimmed to about deer head height. It bears noting here that all these abandoned ranches we were passing does not mean they weren't privately owned. Some showed evidence of recent work whether fencing or work to arrest decay, or as staging area for materials the owners were using elsewhere. From private land ownership maps it looks as if corporate ownership has taken over much of the land.







P.C. Kurstin

An indistinct 2 track took us down to the valley floor. Then began a sandy, weedy overgrown climb up toward Tod Wattle summit. Higher, the road? track? whatever, was only vaguely there. Over the summit and down Luther Waddles wash the track was similar, maybe worse.



P.C. Kurstin

P.C. Kurstin

P.C. Kurstin

P.C. Kurstin

P.C. Kurstin

In due time we made it down to a better road and then it was a fast moderate downhill to Moore's. Unfortunately my hopes of visiting a beautiful old stage stop were dashed due to the current owners having the entire grounds locked up tight. Couldn't even see through the fence and trees enough for pictures...sigh. We were starting to lose the light now so we slowly rolled down the road looking for a suitable place to camp.
Camp 5:  38.684482, -116.183577

Day 6
Moore's was sort of our unofficial turning point. We would now begin looping back south and west. Today's route was along the eastern flank of the Hot Creek Range before climbing up Hot Creek canyon and eventually via another vague 2 track up over Eagle Pass. The rancher I chatted with briefly didn't think the road over Eagle Pass was used anymore. It was quite passable but rough and very steep the last half mile or so. Even Kurstin had to push. I tried to get a photo of him pushing cuz you know, pictures or it didn't happen. Unfortunately he had gained enough ground before hand that I couldn't catch him for the photo ops. So maybe it didn't happen? (I think it did.) But I'm getting ahead of myself (pun intended). Back down where we started climbing up hot creek is the the old mining townsite, which became Hot Springs Resort, now a private ranch. The historic hotel can still be seen. Riding up Hot Creek Canyon was extremely scenic and we even visited the old cemetary. Hot Creek canyon is definately worth further exploration. The night was passed in a random location west of Eagle Pass. It was weird though. It seems we were camped directly below a major north-south commercial airline corridor. No sooner would the noise from one jet fade than another would start up. Constantly. All. Night. Long. I gave up and used ear plugs around midnight. I'm going to create a new metric by which to evaluate this particular factor of a potential camp spot. Overhead Air Traffic Anoyance Factor - OATAF. This camp had an OATAF of 9+. Thankfully the beauty of our surroundings muted the OATAF.
Camp 6: 38.531357,  -116.568465

Camp spot near Moore's station.










P.C. Kurstin

P.C. Kurstin

Camp west of Eagle Pass. High OATAF factor. P.C. Kurstin

Day 4 - 6 We crossed the Toquima Range, made a long transit north through Monitor Valley before crossing it.  Then made our first crossing of the Monitor Range and crested our high point of the trip at Dobbin Summit, dropped into and crossed Little Fish Lake Valley, made our first crossing of the Hot Creek Range, transitted Hot Creek valley south and made our second crossing of the Hot Creek Range.

Logistics: No resupply in this section.

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