WRIAD - White Rim In A Day

 

“The best rides are the ones where you bite off much more than you can chew, and live through it.” - Doug Bradbury 

March 2026 

What off road cyclist hasn't heard of the White Rim road in Utah?  A visually stunning experience in the backcountry of Canyonlands National Park. At 100 miles and 7,200 ft of climbing it is usually bikepacked over 3 to 4 days, Joannie and I had made the plan and bikepacked it in 2016. Although the White Rim Road itself is only about 71 miles, to loop back to your starting point makes it 100 miles.

I left my parked vehicle near the top of the Mineral Bottom switchbacks a few minutes after 5am and made good time for the 13 miles and almost 1300 ft climb back out to the highway just as the sky was beginning to brighten in the east. 

Turning off my lights I started up the 8 miles and additional 400 ft of climbing, passing the closed entry station (I did have my lifetime senior pass) and paused at the entry point of the Shafer Trail road to reminisce for a moment about when Joannie and I had been here with fully loaded bikes. It had been only our 2nd bikepacking trip.

2016

As I made the drop off of the plateau top the views were stunning and I found myself stopping over and over to admire and photograph the expansive panorama. "This could be a long day making all these stops" I thought. 

 

At the junction of the Shafer and White Rim roads I paused again to shed some layers. It had been just above freezing as I left the truck. Perfect to warm up on the climb out and cold as I dropped down onto the rim. But the sun was out and I would be going back to work with pedaling. I quickly downed a cold burrito and turned onto the White Rim.

So many good memories as I made my way clockwise through the ride. First up was Musselman Arch, named for Ross Musselman, a tour and rock shop owner in Moab for many years. When we did our bikepack trip in 2016 it was still allowed to walk out onto the arch, so of course I did. I think this was disallowed the following year.

2016

2026

At mile 39 came Airport Camp and views of Washerwoman Arch and Monster tower. Beyond the camp I took photos of the same spots where we rested in the shade in 2016. 

2016

2026

Then eventually Gooseberry Camp. This was where we spent our 2nd night after the quick opening ride to Shafer Camp on our original tour. 

And of course the never ending canyon views. 

I stopped for photos aside Monument Basin. Again.

Joannie and Monument Basin 2016

2026

The Totem Pole

It is now illegal to climb any of the monuments in Monument Basin. However the 1st ascent was done by Bill Feuerer, Jerry Gallwas, Mark Powell, and Don Wilson, June 11–13, 1957. It was graded graded 5.10 YDS A2.

Just after passing the branch to White Crack Camp I saw a small band of Bighorn Sheep. We saw some in 2016 also but I don't think it was here. I think it was the morning right after leaving the Gooseberry Camp. 

 

My goal had been to average 8mph and to make it to the top of Murphy's Hogback by 2pm. I didn't quite make it but I was really close. I think I made it to the top of Murphy's about 10 minutes late. But honestly I don't remember the exact time. I was so stoked to be here. I was feeling really fresh for having ridden 65 miles and almost 5k elevation so far! I took about a half hour break and ate and drank and refilled my hydration bladder with more Tailwind Endurance fuel. I think much of why I was feeling so great is that for one of the only times ever I was fueling properly. I had been snacking throughout the day mostly on Trail Nut Butter, Spring Energy gel and Walmart trail mix. Now I downed another cold burrito and washed it down with Tailwind. After another bunch of pictures from the overlook I was ready to go again.

Top of Murphy's Hogback 2016

 

2026

2026

From Murphy's Hogback the ride trends downhill with only 2 more significant climbs, Hardscrabble and the final climb up to Island In The Sky from Mineral Bottom. That didn't mean though that it was all easy sailing. There are still a fair number of short punchy climbs. Passing Candlestick Camp brought back more memories of when we camped there in 2016 with the weather beginning to turn and the theme for setting up camp was "more rocks, more rocks" due to the high winds.

"More rocks, more rocks" 2016

 

Beyond Candlestick I stopped again to check out Holeman slot. We didn't on our original trip because by now the weather had caught us and we were in light rain. This time I was feeling time pressure as I could see the sun was getting low in the sky. I still walked over to the top to take a peek. 

I was now on the Green River side of the of the route vs the Colorado River for the first half. The going was definitely faster and before long Potato Bottom Camp appeared. This is where the Hardscrabble climb begins. It's only a little over 400 ft but it felt harder to me than Murphy's and steeper. I pushed most of it. As I had Murphy's. But at Murphy's I told myself I was saving my legs. Here I was just trying to make it up. More breath taking views from the top, however I didn't linger. Quickly snapping a few photos I made quick work of getting over to Labyrinth Camp. Our final camp in 2016.

 

Beyond Labyrinth I came to the end of the White Rim Road and got back on county road. In wet weather this road can be quite muddy.

2016

2026

  

2016

Daylight was failing as I made my way the final miles to the bottom of the big climb out. 

 

I have done this climb several times before though and even walking it goes quickly. I tried riding up but ended up pushing the majority. I didn't have the legs or gearing to ride the whole climb. Nearing the top I again switched on my lights for the final 15 minutes back to the truck. To my own surprise I still felt I could do another 20 miles. But I didn't.

 

Climbing out from Mineral Bottom

 

Notes on the ride:

My Coros Dura has my times at 12:28 riding time and 15:05 total time. Remember my 8 mph goal? The Dura has my avg. speed at 8.1 mph.  

 

Bike:

Bike is a carbon frame modeled after the Trek Stache, I pulled off my Rockshox Pike Select 130mm suspension fork off another bike and used it here. Drivetrain is a cheap Ali Express crank, with a SRAM 32 tooth chainring and flat pedals. Shifting was Microshift 11spd with 11/46 cassette. I ran 29x2.2 Continental Race King tires on BTLOS I32 carbon rims. Of note is that I ran these tubeless at 24psi and I felt that worked great.

 

Gear: 

Clothing - I wore Outdoors Vitals Altitude sun hoodie and Ketl Virtue shorts.  For the cold start in the morning I added an REI lightweight merino wool long top, REI wind shell and Patagonia Nano Puff hooded jkt. Lightweight hikers for shoes.

On the bike - Handlebar mounted headlight, rear red blinky light. Coros Dura bike computer. Phone mounted on handlebar via Peak Design phone mount. I mounted 1 bike bottle cage on each seat stay and 1 on the top tube with hose clamps and carried a .8 ltr bike bottle in each. 

Bags - Rogue Panda top tube bag and frame bag, (2) Revelate Designs feed bags, Wayward Riders Louise dropper post harness coupled with Restrap 8 liter tapered dry bag. 

In the bags -  Top tube bag carried lip balm, sunscreen, tire lever, plug kit, glasses, small multi-tool. Feed bags carried snacks, energy gels, knife and my Garmin Inreach mini. Frame bag carried a 2 liter water bladder, food, extra Tailwind, extra gels, a cache battery (not needed) and a derailleur cable. Seat pack held another 2 liter bladder, repair kit and clothes as I shed them as the day warmed up. In addition I had an Osprey hip pack with a 1.5 liter bladder with drinking tube, keys, wallet, wind shell. 

 

Logistics: 

Thankfully I am retired so I can do these 'smash and grab' type trips. I simply get set up and ready then look for a window that fits the conditions I am looking for. As for water I carried about 7.5 liters which was way more than I needed due to the perfect conditions I encountered. I think I used maybe 3-4 liters for the whole route. Had it been hot and/or windy that would have gone up dramatically. A permit is required for the White Rim, even if just day tripping. They issue 50 mountain bike permits/day with half being available online from 8am the day prior to your trip. Permits not reserved are available in person the day of at the Visitor Center. For obvious reasons this can potentially be burdensome for folks coming in from elsewhere. When I got mine I couldn't print a pdf to my phone and had to screen shot the permit. Maybe operator error. I debated where to start/stop the route. At the top of Mineral Bottom or at the bottom. I settled on the top even though that left the big climb out at the end. I felt like it would fit my clothing strategy better. Ultimately I like the way it worked out. I had a nice peaceful evening walk up the hill to decompress, haha! This is the route I rode: WRIAD

White Rim at Monument Basin from Grandview lookout the following day