Saturday, September 30, 2023

Where The Hell Is Pizona? Bikepacking The Borders.


September 2023

Maps do funny things. They sometimes call out the most obscure place names...for no logical reason. I've run across several in my bike travels, Andy's Place near the Oregon Border in the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge always comes to mind as an example. They always pique my curiosity spurring a visit.  Such seems to be the case for Pizona California.

I chose this route for several reasons. I wanted to recon the portion that I would use were I to do a longer route heading south. But I needed to loop it this time so I routed across the Excelsior mountains which took me through Pizona. This was a 5 day route with day 3 being the most demanding, and it was also the day going through the place name of Pizona. 

Day1. Pretty easy day really. I didn't even leave the house particularly early and didn't start riding until about 11am. Today was just an easy cruise out to Fletcher Spring, fill up with water and ride out further until below the first big climb over the Wassuk Range. I did see a group of Pronghorn on my way out to Fletcher. I could have ridden out to Fletcher from my house but that would've added 3 days one way to the ride. Here is the report for that ride.



Fletcher


Day 2. Today was going to be a long day but not the hardest day. I made relatively short work of the climb up over the Wassuk range and rolled quickly down into Whiskey Flat. A car passed as I crossed over the pavement of hwy NV 359 as it continues south from Hawthorne. I could see the somewhat incredulous looks of the vehicles occupants as they whizzed past me in what would seem to be the 'middle of nowhere.' I crossed the valley and it's lone ranch outpost and began the second climb of the day up to Rattlesnake flat. It wasn't a long climb up to the valley and I intersected a route I had done in April of this same year upon arrival. It heralded the beginning of another climb up into the Excelsior Mountains and Summit Spring where I planned on filtering additional water. The water was much greener and 'full of life' than it had been back in April but it filtered out just fine. After filtering I continued on via a track I had ridden in April until I came to a junction where my old track veered right but my current route continued left down a canyon. This route yielded excellent adventure riding with no trace of the road that had once followed this route. I rolled down mini dryfalls and walked a couple that were not as mini. Loose decomposed granite over a firmer base demanded attention, a behaviour I learned the hard way when I took a complete digger and nearly did a couple of additional times. Finally nearing the flats of  the valley floor above Teels Marsh and the old mining town of Marrietta, I stopped to take a break in the shade and internally debated my strategy for the remainder of the day. I briefly thought about camping right there but that would make for a long day tomorrow. I thought about waiting an hour or 2 for cooler temps going around Teels Marsh. Ultimately I just cooled off for 30-45 minutes in the shade of the canyon wall and continued on. I ran out of wash to ride in the lowest section before Marrietta and ended up just picking my way across the desert until I intersected the road that I knew was there. From there it was relatively quick riding until well out past Marrietta. I turned off and climbed the last couple of miles up to German Spring. Arriving there I was crushed to see the springs in pretty bad shape from the wild burros. I found a place to set up my camp then wandered around for over half an hour trying to find a reasonable water source to filter from. The water is abundandant but it has all been trampled and muddied by the burro's. I finally settled on attempting to retrieve water from a vertically placed 6" PVC pipe that was embedded in one muddy hole. I used my dip bag to dip water out of it and ran it through a bandana before putting it in my dirty bag for filtering. I retrieved enough water for the evening this way and left the pipe hoping the water level within would recover during the night for dipping more water in the morning. The donkey braying seemed to subside a bit with the onset of darkness and I was able to get some sleep with the help of ear plugs.





Summit spring




German Spring with the pipe that I obtained water from

Residents

Day 3. Crack of dawn, or maybe sooner? and the burro's started up with the braying as they came in to drink from the main springs pool. Absolutely no sleeping after that. I got up and went to retrieve more water for filtering but the pipe had not recovered it's level. I dipped as much as I could reach which really was just enough. Packing up, the days riding began somewhat benign. As I climbed ever higher into the mountains the track just became rougher and rougher until I was just climbing up loose softball sized cobble. It was very difficult riding and went on for miles. The only respite was when the track turned to unrideably soft sand. The riding continued like this for around 14 miles until shortly before Sagehen Spring. The spring contained water and would be filterable if needed. I declined to filter any expecting easier riding all the way to Pizona Spring. Wrong! I passed McBride Spring and continued on. My GPS track took me on an overgrown and quite rowdy descent through a shallow draw before regaining better track. Then a short distance above Upper Pizona Spring the GPS track I was following completely disappeared on the actual ground. I noticed the ATV trail continued quite steeply up the hill while my GPS wanted me to drop into the wash. I rode up the ATV track a short distance but was fooled into thinking it climbed out of the drainage without dropping back to the wash. Turning back down to the wash I proceeded a until the brush became completely impenetrable with a bike. Climbing out the north side I tried following a horse trail. I gave up and pondered what to do. I scoped the surroundings as best I could then plunged back into the brush without my bike now heading south toward a faint line on the hillside that I hoped was the ATV track. It wasn't. But I did stumble across the track much lower near the wash. As it turned out the ATV track had climbed up a ways then split and a branch did indeed drop back into the wash, but I couldn't see that branch. Returning to retrieve my bike then thrashing back through the brush, I was mightily relieved to be on a track. More adventure riding took me continually down canyon until I finally did arrive at Pizona. I had found it! Another map waypoint mystery solved! I stopped and took a much needed physical and psychological break. It was getting late as travel had been quite slow today so I didn't spend any time looking for old ruins. I gathered myself together determined to make it down to River Spring. 



Old structure on route

Upper Pizona Spring

Pizona



Beautiful River Spring

Day 4. River Spring. Beautiful clear water bubbling up through the sand. The source is so obviously pure that after the first litre I didn't bother continuing to filter the water. I was out of water on arrival the night before but had filtered enough to get through the night. In the morning I just loaded up my normal amount plus a couple additional litres. Today I was crossing the Mono Lake basin and heading up to Bodie Ghost Town. The first few miles went well and then more sand. I made it across to to the good Dobie Meadows road after crossing a creek outflow that had some nice trout in it. I was now on the Caldera 500 bikepacking route and would follow it all the way to Bodie. I crossed hwy 167 following a pretty good road but about 3 miles in the route veered off onto yet another barely there 2 track. Sand, deep soft sand was my companion once again. The progress slowed and I heated up using more and more water. I stopped in the shade for about 30 minutes. I felt like I had to continue making progress so pushed on again. I only went about a half mile before I made the strategic decision to stop for the day. I was using too much water and would run out if I continued, plus, if I went any higher I could see the hillsides steepening and I didn't think I'd find a campsite. I set up camp and just enjoyed the spectacular view the remainder of the afternoon.


HA! Some of the best road on route!





Day 5. The finish. It had turned out to be a great choice to stop the night before. In the morning it was cooler and although I still pushed my bike for a couple of miles, I made good progress, had plenty of water and the higher reaches of the route proved rideable all the way into Bodie. The state park entrance was manned but he let me through for no charge after I explained I was just passing through and out the other side. I've been to Bodie several times and even participated in a mountain bike not-race, race, a few years ago. I only stopped to refill my water in the bathrooms and then moved on. Bodie Canyon was next. I was no longer on the Caldera route and I knew that technically the road down through Bodie canyon was closed. This road is very subject to washouts and still near town I passed a road crew working on the road and grading. I had no idea if I could even get through the canyon. The upper reaches of the canyon weren't bad with only a couple of washed out creek crossings. But once past the old stateline toll house it got serious. I spent the next several hours alternately wading through the creek and working down through dry washout boulder gardens. So beautiful, but so slow, so tedious! Of course in due time I made it through the canyon and a quick downhill put me back at idyllic Fletcher Springs. I only had 14 miles back to my truck retracing the route I had ridden to get here a few days earlier. So after a nice cool off in the shade of the large Cottonwoods I ventured out into the hot sun and with no further incidents found myself back at the truck in about an hour and a half. Cracking a European beer, (I say European because don't they drink warm beer?) I leisurely broke down my gear and stowed it away, then began the fairly short drive home. 





The Way

Also the Way


Beer! Euro style!

This link goes to the planned route as my ride didn't record properly on Ride With GPS. Please read the notes attached to the route page if you'd like to ride this yourself.


The Video:


Bike setup: Binary Bicycles Kinetik running 29x3.0 tires. Front suspension, custom rack and bikepacking bags.

Stats per my Wahoo Element Bolt:
158.78 mi, 12,589 ft climbing





Friday, September 8, 2023

Almost Paradise - Bikepacking The Santa Rosa Mountains - A Lesson In Humility


Sept, 2023. 

On paper it looked reasonable. Significant, but reasonable. Day 1, a 'mere' `30 miles and `3k+ of climbing. NBD right? During the planning phase it looked like day 2 was going to be the real deal. Roughly the same mileage but 4500 ft of climbing on faint roads, but high into the mountains and exploring old mining ruins. I expected the 3rd and final day to be a reasonable climb out over Hinkey summit and a fast downhill back into the town of Paradise Valley where we started. Kurstin of Bikepacking Northern Nevada joined me for this trip. We took our Tenkara rods expecting to have some time to fish in the mountain streams.

This trip manifested as a mix of good stuff, hard stuff and ultimately route bail on my part. Day 1 kicked my butt, hard! After an easy initial 7 miles or so we began the climb, err, push up ultra steep, ultra chunky china grade on what the maps name China Rd. Although the grade mellowed out the chunkyness (is that a word?) did not and continued intermittantly through the remainder of the day. Early in the day we also fought through dried weed forests that would catch in your derailleur and cranks forcing you to again and again clear your drivetrain. As frustrating as this may sound the route passed through some incredibly beautiful and rugged terrrain. Intitially deep canyons and later valley and hill country. We did stop briefly at one stream crossing to fish a bit but neither of us saw or felt any fish. By afternoon, I was cooked and Kurstin was being forced to wait for what seemed excessively long, for me to catch up. Thankfully he was very gracious about it and never showed any frustration. Finally we had a long downhill into an old ranch bordering a nice meadow and with a creek nearby. We decided to camp there. After filtering water Kurstin brought out his tenkara rod and headed back over to the creek to try his hand at fishing again.  I however determined to practice what a nephew had termed "deckabout." That's when you're too tired to do anything but sit in a chair and look out at the world. So I pulled out my collapsible camp chair and practiced my skills. 


Photo credit Kurstin G





Photo credit Kurstin G


Photo credit Kurstin G



Photo credit Kurstin G

Photo credit Kurstin G

That evening and during the night I thought a lot how the following day would play out since the 'easy' day had humbled me so soundly. I started looking at the maps I had downloaded to my phone and saw a route that would eliminate the big climb up over Buckskin Mountain. In the morning we woke to a bush plane flying low over the abundant cattle sounding a whistling air horn to herd the cattle. Modern ranching I guess. The plane made numerous passes and at one point it looked like it was going to land but finally climbed back out. I approached Kurstin with the suggestion of deleting the Buckskin climb and cutting directly across to intersect the original route. He was like "Yeah sure! Sounds good." Easy going, adaptable, competant and fun. A great partner.

The riding was on much better roads and I felt much better. The shortcut we followed cut off 22 miles and lots of climbing. The terrain we crossed so far today was high desert meadow and creek valley type terrain. It was still early when we arrived below the final climb up over Hinkey summit so we just decided to go all the way back to town that day vs stay overnight again. The grade was surprisingly mellow but I was still walking some of it. As we climbed we entered Aspen forest country. Very beautiful and a stark contrast to the volcanic ground we crossed the prior day. At the summit a huge rock face with a large natural arch overlooks the pass and the valley below. 
Kurstin says "there's gotta be (climbing) bolts, c'mon...!. 
My reply was "I doubt it, it's too isolated." Moments later we spotted bolts going up the wall. Well. I looked it up on mountain project when I got home. Yep, sure enough. Hinkey summit climbing area.











There was nothing left but the fast downhill and the ride back into town. The downhill was just that too, fast and fun! In no time we arrived back at the truck. Paradise Valley is a lovely little town with very friendly folks, nearly everyone gave us a wave and a smile. We had a cold beer at the local bar, inquired about the saturday night steak BBQ for future reference and began the long drive home. 

Photo credit Kurstin G

Photo credit Kurstin G



The stats via my Wahoo Element Bolt:
Day 1: 26.6 miles, 3392 ft climbing
Day2: 33.54 miles, 3058 ft climbing

Bike setup: Binary Bicycles Kinetik V2 hardtail. 29x3" tires. Bikepacking bags and custom rear rack.